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What is a weed pot? That's a very fair question?
My definition is: "any vessel for holding a single stem of grass
or weed, that isn't a normally accepted vase shape". It's that simple.
If it's capable of holding a scrap of grass, a cotton tail or a
ear of wheat, then it fits the bill, regardless of shape, or material.
Stock Selection
When it comes to stock selection, the world is your
oyster. There is no such thing as wrong choice. I have used old
roots, clean material, bits of branches, and other odd pieces of
wood. If it's wood use it. The only thing you really have to grapple
with is how you'll hold it on the lathe. Also make sure that if
you are turning an odd shaped piece that you watch out for the normal
dangers with this sort of turning; barked knuckles, loose clothing,
etc. Common sense really.
Tools Needed
I generally use the following tools to create my masterpieces:
- 3 mm bowl gouge (1/2 inch)
- 6 mm bowl gouge (1/4 inch) for detail
and neck work
- 6 mm drill (1/4 inch)
- A Dremel with a sanding drum attachment (optional)
- and of course my trusty Teknatool 1200 and Nova Chuck
In addition, you will need a range of sandpaper.
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Preparation
Preparation for this project really consists
of only two activities. Decide where you want the "neck" to
be. This dictates the rotational center of your piece. And
then mount your stock in whatever manner you can to rotate
the piece with the neck as the center.
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Procedure
I mount the stock between centers, across grain,
and turn a spigot on the end that will be the bottom
(photo 1). This is then mounted in the chuck. The tail stock
can now be moved out of the way (photo 2).
Now with the piece initially shaped, I rough form
the neck to shape and size, ready for drilling (photo
3). The turning shown here is purely free form. You can make
yours in the dimensions and shape that you feel will best present
the textures, colors, and features of the wood you are using.
I now drill the neck (photo 4). Again
the size of the hole is personal. It can be small or large, shallow
or deep. The reason that I drill the hole now is that the act of
drilling can cause some break away. By drilling before the final
shaping of the neck, you can catch any break out and incorporate
it in the final design.
Now shape the neck (photo 5).
I prefer to put a flare on the lip in a traditional style, but again
it depends on factors such as which way the wind is blowing and
what you had for dinner last Sunday night. It is purely your choice.
Another shape that can be done is to have a straight neck, and cut
the end off on an angle with a small saw later.
I now apply a coat of whatever finish I am using.
In this case I have used sanding sealer. This was then sanded back
and a coat of friction polish was applied (photo
6).
At this point you are finished and can part the
work off. Here I am using my parting tool made from a power hacksaw
blade (photo 7) .
Photo 7
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Finished turning
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Rex Haslip
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