Photo 1 Click for enlarged view

This month I am going to make a plant stand like the ones in (photo 1) I selected a piece of Hemlock for this project because I wanted something with a nice grain to show off the beads and coves I was creating. The piece was originally a stair newel post and was 8 ft long by 4" x 4". I cut off a length about 30" long and marked the centers by cutting corner to corner on the band saw, otherwise known as cutting on the diagonals. This process makes it easy to locate the drive and live centers at the center of the timber. The dogs of the drive-centre fit nicely in the grooves. Other ways of finding center are by marking the diagonals with a pencil and ruler or by using one of the many center finders on the market. I set the 12" tool rest at center height and parallel with the bed bars and about 1/4" away from the corners of the timber (Photo 2). I spun the timber by hand to make sure the fifth corner didn't catch and double checked that everything was tight and secure. The speed was now set at the lowest r.p.m. on the middle belt, I have electronic speed control, and the lathe switched on. I gradually brought the speed up and when I thought it was right, I took the Hamlet 1/2" roughing gouge and started to bring the timber to a cylinder.

Photo 2 click for enlarged view

Photo 3 click for enlarged view

The roughing gouge is the proper tool to use for this part of the project. The deep fluted bar gives the necessary strength required when stresses such as these are put on a tool. Gradually the timber was brought to a reasonable cylinder and then the speed was increased for the final cut with the roughing gouge. I sometimes use a skew chisel here, however I am doing this project with only the Hamlet roughing gouge and the Hamlet 2030 spindle gouge to show the versatility of the latter. Raising the speed and slowing down the rate of travel improves the finish of the cut.

I had a good image in my head of how I wanted this piece to look and I marked out the top and bottom tenons where the top and base would be fitted (next project coming soon). I used the roughing gouge held right over on its side to cut the tenons, (Photo 3) and bring them down to 11/8" to match that size of saw toothed drill bit. The fluted side of the gouge cut a straight-sided tenon quite easily and left only a few hairs to be tidied up later.

Photo 4 click for enlarged view Now if any one has a mental block about what shapes to incorporate into a spindle such as this don't despair. Go along to your local stair parts stockist and take a look at the spindles and newels on display (Photo 4).

I changed to the Hamlet ASP 2030 spindle gouge for the rest of the work on the spindle. The ½" gouge has been re - profiled to the shape that I prefer (Photos 5 & 6). Notice the nose of the spindle gouge is not over pointed.

Photo 5 click for enlarged view	Photo 6 click for enlarged view