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Lidded
Box Examples
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Lidded Box's are as far as I know, turned containers (with lids),
turned parallel to the end grain so that the top and bottom surfaces
of the box are end grain. I guess if they were turned across grain,
then they would be lidded bowls. I prefer to turn my entire box
from a single piece of wood, so that the grain in the lid and the
base of the box match. It also follows that if the wood moves due
to any atmospheric change, both bits will move the same and the
lid will still fit. This is not essential if you wish to make boxes
and use the different types of wood to enhance the effect.
Stock Selection
So what are you going to turn this masterpiece out of. Well the
answer is, anything you want The dimensions are purely dependent
on the finished dimensions of what you want to make, or what stock
you have available Stock should be dry, but it is not really important
if hard or softer woods are used For the piece featured in the photos
here, I have again raided the firewood box, and this is Pinus Radiata
(I think, or some member of the pine family) and the dimensions
of the raw stock, when rounded were Length, 120mm (5 inches) x diameter
65mm (2 1/2 inches) This is completely irrelevant though as they
can be of any size and proportion.
Tools Needed
There is not a great range of tools used here, but you may wish
to use others to reach the same effect or some other desired effect,
including detailing or decorating. I use the following to create
a standard plain box.
- 25 mm skew (1 inch) (optional)
- 13mm skew (1/2 inch) ( optional)
- 13 mm bowl gouge (1/2 inch)
- Ring tool, used for end grain hollowing (made by Teknatool)
( optional)
- 10 mm drill (3/8 inch) (optional)
- Calipers (optional)
- and of course my trusty Teknatool 1200 and Nova Chuck
Preparation
Very little preparation work needs to be done to
prepare for this project Your stock needs to be turned round, and
each end must be able to be secured in your chuck. If this is not
possible, then you will need to turn a tenon on each end by mounting
between centers first. You can mark the approximate dimensions on
the stock, allowing 10mm (3/8") at one end for the lid to be
mounted in the chuck; and about 35mm (1 3/8") at the other
end for the base to be mounted, and to make a jam chuck to clean
the bottom off. The rest of the stock is useable, so decide where
the lid dimensions and mark it accordingly. (The third line)
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Procedure
Step 1
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Photo
2
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As discussed earlier in Preparation,
we need to have our pre-marked stock so it can be mounted
in the chuck. Photo 2 shows the stock as described mounted
in a standard Nova 4 jaw chuck. The dimensions as described
are marked on it. 10mm (3/8") at one end for the lid
to be mounted in the chuck, and about 35mm (1 3/8") at
the other end, a third line between these at about 35 mm for
the lid depth. Draw a straight line lengthwise down the stock,
running with the grain. Trust me, it will help later on.
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Photo
3
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Step 2
The first real turning operation is to part
the lid off . I know this seems a little early, but you need
to be able to turn the inside. Photo 3 shows me parting the
lid off using my "hacksaw" parting tool. I am parting it off
at the mark that was decided during the Preparation
phase.
Step 3
After parting off the lid, go and find it
on the workshop floor and recover it for later use. Remove
the remaining stock from the chuck. Be sure to mark the jaw
numbers on the stock so that it goes back in the same spot
later.
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Mount the lid section, with the newly parted edge
facing away from the chuck. You are now going to complete the inside
of the lid. First turn a lip into the lid surface. This forms the
inside of the lid, which will fit over the top of the lip on the
box's base. Then hollow the lid with what ever method you feel comfortable
with. Remember, if you want to turn a cove in the lid joining area,
similar the one I have made here, you cannot reduce the wall thickness
too far at the lip. Finish the inside of the lid and the surface
furthest from the chuck completely, sanding to what ever finished
state you are happy with.
Step 4
Remove the lid, and remount the base, in the same
position that you had it mounted previously. Remember the numbering
off the jaws. Now there is a little precision tool work required.
You need to turn a lip for the lid lip to fit over. It
is important that this lip is a tight fit into the lid, as you will
be jam chucking the lid onto the base to turn the outside, so don't
rush, and take care. Don't despair if you mess this up, as all is
not lost. If it is mildly loose, then dampen it and the fibers of
the wood lifting, will cause the fit to tighten up. If that doesn't
work, then revert to the good old toilet tissue, yep toilet tissue,
or paper towels or what ever. They work a treat taking up the slack.
Another point to watch, is that you need to temper
your desire to get a tight fit with the likelihood of splitting
the side out of the lid. You shouldn't need to drive the lid on
with a hammer. As normal, commonsense reigns supreme, and after
making the mistake once, you'll get a feel for how tight tight is.
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