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This photo is supposed to show ring #3 centered on the pencil
circle on ring #2. Even if the photograph doesn't show it, ring
#3 is centered. |
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This next operation need to be performed after every few rings
are glued on. If you don't safety plane each ring, then this
step must be performed after every ring is glued on. This step
is called face flattening and runout correcting. If the face
is obviously not flat, such as if it has not been safety planed,
then go ahead and flatten the surface. I use a skew like a scraper
and check it with a scale. If you are uncertain of the ring
flatness or face runout, then set up the tool rest and pencil
(not touching yet) like the photo, turn the lathe on to high
speed and lightly touch the pencil to the ring face. |
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If the ring is perfectly flat and has no face runout, then the
pencil mark will be a complete (or nearly complete) circle.
If the ring needs cutting then the pencil mark will be a short
arc, like in the photo above. From this photo, ring #3 needs
to be cut. If you don't make this ring face correction every
few rings, by the time you get to the lip ring, the runout problem
may be exaggerated and you might be unhappy with the results.
This ring face correction usually takes only a few minutes to
perform. |
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This photo shows ring #3 face has been flattened and the face
runout corrected. The pencil mark on the ring face is a nice
circle. |
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Ring #4 has been centered to ring #3 and glued on. It was centered
using the same method as ring #2 to ring #3. |
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Ring #5 has been centered to ring #4 and glued on. It
was centered using the same method as ring #2 to ring #3. |
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The face of ring #5 is being flattened using the same procedure
as with ring #3. The pencil mark is a nice circle. |
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I am cutting pieces of of white and black veneer that go above
and below the purpleheart central ring (ring #6). I could have
cut veneer rings for this step because my veneer was wide enough,
but I wanted to show that veneer can be economically cut, when
the ring is much larger than the veneer width. I used ring #6
to make a template for cutting a veneer piece which spans 4
segments of the 12 segment ring. For some very big segmented
rings, I will make a template that spans 3 segments of a 12
segment ring to avoid waste. |
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The veneer pieces are being glued to ring #6 using the drill
press as a veneer press. The veneer can be glued on ring #6
ahead of time. |
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Ring #6 has been centered to ring #5 and glued on. It
was centered using the same method as ring #2 to ring #3. |
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This photo shows the inside of the new bowl after gluing ring
#6. I usually pre-turn the inside of the bowl at this point,
just to get the inside smooth. It would be difficult to reach
way down into a deep bowl and smooth the segments after the
bowl has been completely assembled. This cutting is not for
bowl wall thickness. Later, I'll cut the inside of this part
of the bowl to get my desired bowl wall thickness. |
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The inside of the bowl has been turned smooth on the lathe.
I used a Robert Sorby RS-2000 lathe tool. It probably would
have been possible to use a bowl gouge but I don't have one
with the correct grind. This area will be turned again so I
didn't bother sanding. The flat areas have just barely been
cleaned up. No extra wood has been removed because the bowl
might be structurally weakened. It's difficult to see in this
photo, but a pencil mark has been made on the face on the black
veneer in ring #6 that will be used to center ring #7. On dark
woods I use a silver pencil to make the mark easier to see.
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Ring #7 is being glued to ring #6, using the pencil mark on
ring #6 for centering. |
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There are two pencil marks on ring #7. The inner mark is a check
for ring face flatness and runout. The outer pencil mark will
be used to center ring #8. |
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Ring #8 centering is being checked prior to gluing to ring #7. |
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Ring #8 is being glued to ring #7, using the pencil mark on
ring #7 for centering. |
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White and black veneer has been cut for the lip ring (ring #9).
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The drill press veneer press was in use so I used this alternate
method of clamping the lip ring veneer. |
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The lip ring (ring #9) centering is being checked prior to gluing
to ring #8. |
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Ring #9 is being glued to ring #8, using the pencil mark on
ring #8 for centering. |
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The entire bowl assembly has now been glued. The outside surface
is ready to be turned smooth. |
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Another view of the bowl assembly. |
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The outside of the new bowl has been turned smooth. I used a
3/4" diameter bowl gouge to rough turn the outside. Then
I used several different sizes of skews to finish turn the outside.
I always completely turn the bowl outside surface before I go
on to the inside. Sometimes, at this point, I will also finish
sand. |
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The inside of the new bowl has been turned smooth in this photo.
I started at the top of the bowl, turning the bowl to final
wall thickness of 3/16" to 1/4", and worked my way
to the bottom. If you work from the bottom upwards, the bowl
will probably break off the lathe because it will be too weak
to sustain rough turning at the top. After finish turning the
bowl inside, I sanded the entire bowl and parted it off the
lathe at the base using a parting tool. I sanded the base parting
using my 6"x48" belt sander and by hand sanding. The
bowl was finished using one coat of Behlen's spray sanding sealer,
followed with several coats of Behlen's Jet Spray lacquer. The
next day, I hand rubbed the finish using Deluxing Compound and
polished with Renaissance Wax. |
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The finished product. |
