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Photo 8 Click on the Photo for an enlarged view

Photo 9 Click on the Photo for an enlarged view

Photo 10 Click on the Photo for an enlarged view

Photo 11 Click on the Photo for an enlarged view

Now, with the 1/2" gouge, I started to form the bottom curve of the apple. (Photo 8) Remember that most apples are not parallel along their length, but are slightly tapered towards the bottom. Once I had the basic shape top and bottom, it was time to refine the finish for sanding. This was done by scraping with the skew chisel held flat on the tool rest and gently running the tool round the apple, (Photo 9) following the curve very carefully and gently. Another excellent way to achieve a fine finish is by shear scraping with the gouge. Hold the gouge well over on its side, with the flute facing to the left, and gently scrape the apple following the curve.

When I had done this, I took the long point of the skew and cut into the end of the apple at the tailstock end, still with the chisel flat on the tool rest. This gave me a starting point for drilling the hole for the stock of the apple later. I changed to a small 1/4" spindle gouge (Photo 10) and formed the indentation that you find on the top and bottom of an apple. A firm grip is needed on the tool with the thumb behind the tool for support. You don't want to have any kickbacks at this stage. With the bevel rubbing, and the tool almost vertical, I started to follow the curve at the end of the apple. I gently brought my right elbow round and watched for the tool starting to take a cut. I brought my elbow around further so that the cut began to deepen and followed through to the center. If you make the previous cut with the skew deep enough, you will hopefully get a clean finish here. Take a look at the curved indentation and if you need to refine it, use the long point of the skew to scrape it to a clean finish.

At this stage, I put a Jacobs chuck in the tailstock with a 1/8th drill bit fixed firmly in the jaws. I brought the tailstock up to within 1/4" of the end of the timber (Photo 11) and held the Jacobs chuck with my left hand. Then I started to wind the drill up into the end of the apple. If you want, you can push the tailstock up to the apple. I drilled this hole about 1 1/2" deep to accept the screw of the wooden chuck which I will use later. After drilling the hole, I withdrew the drill and moved the tailstock along the lathe bed out of the way.

I was now ready to start the sanding process. I recommend cloth-backed abrasives for this job. I use Vitex, which is a "j" weight cloth. I start with 100 or 120 grit, depending on the finish I acquired with the skew, and worked through 180, 240 and 320 grits, finishing with 400. I like to stop the lathe and give the apple a coat of cellulose sanding sealer at this point, but I thin it down 50/50 with cellulose thinners. This serves two purposes. One, it lets the sealer penetrate deep

Photo 12 Click on the Photo for an enlarged view

Photo 13 Click on the Photo for an enlarged view

into the grain of the timber, and two, it makes the sealer go a lot further and therefore saves you money. With a dry cloth and the lathe spinning, I dried the sealer and then gently rubbed it down with 0000 steel wool. A little bit of paste wax is put on the steel wool to prevent scratching the surface of the apple. I applied a second coat and dried it off as before, flattening it down gently with the steel wool. With a clean lint free cloth I applied some friction polish and dried off as I did with the sealer, buffing up to a high gloss finish. Then I took a stick of Carnauba wax and while the lathe was spinning, I rubbed the stick over the whole of the apple. Using a clean cloth, I put some pressure onto the coat of wax, melting it, and buffed up with a clean soft cloth. (Photo 12) With a1/8th parting tool, I parted the apple off carefully and laid it aside. (Photo 13)