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Designing
a Basic Segmented Bowl Using Your Computer
This article was reprinted with the permission
of Kevin Neelley. For more information about him and this technique
you can visit his website.
This article is similar to my "Designing
a Basic Segmented Bowl" article except that this one uses
my Table
Saw Miter Angles program. This alternate method of bowl design
uses no math and very little sketching and drawing. The computer
performs all the calculations necessary to turn a bowl sketch into
segmented rings. This article is intended for the beginning segmented
bowl maker. I have made one design sheet to help the beginner through
the design phase. The steps below will show you how to design a
12-sided segmented bowl that has 9 layers of segments.
The picture to the right is the bowl that is designed in this article.
After you're done reading this, you can read more about how to make
this bowl. You can also see the plans for a frame-miter
table saw sled that makes perfect ring segments.
If you make a similar bowl and follow these steps, your bowl will
turn out fine. Don't worry about the details of segmented bowl construction.
Instead, spend your time thinking of an original design that you
like. I'm sure that experienced segmented bowl turners don't make
bowls using all the steps on this webpage. I don't make segmented
bowls this way either, but I think it's a good learning approach.
Experience will tell you how to modify the steps. Until you are
experienced, you shouldn't modify the steps until you understand
how the changes will affect the segmented bowl construction.
Click on the images to enlarge them.
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Figure 1
This blank design sheet is used for drawing the outline of your
bowl. This sheet is big enough to design a bowl 12" diameter
by 12 ring levels tall. Each row, 1 through 12, corresponds with
a ring level of your bowl design. The grids on the sheet are intended
to be 1" wide by 3/4" tall to make it easy to measure
bowl ring dimensions directly from the sheet. But, I found that
every printer seems to print the grids at different sizes. So, I
suggest printing out one sheet then using a photocopy machine to
enlarge the sheet to full 1" grid width.
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Design Step #1
Draw the right-hand half outline of the new bowl on the sheet.
This is the first step in the design process. If you want to see
what the whole outline looks like, hold the left side of the sheet
against a mirror so you can see the reflection of the sheet. The
entire outline can then be viewed. This design has 9 rings. The
bottom ring will be a solid disk. The other 8 rings will be segmented.
I have decided to make the top, middle, and bottom rings from purpleheart
and the rest of the rings from maple. The bowl will be made from
3/4" thick kiln-dried lumber, purchased from a local lumberyard.
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Design Step #2
Draw the inner surface outline of the new bowl on the sheet using
1/2" wall thickness. The 1/2" wall thickness does not
mean I'm going to turn the bowl to 1/2" thickness. The 1/2"
is just a reasonably safe design thickness. You can turn your bowl
thinner. On the other hand, if you don't make your segmented rings
very accurately and they end up egg-shaped or the wrong diameter,
then 1/2" might not be big enough. We'll take our chances on
this one because I'm using a really
accurate mitering sled.
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Design Step #3
I have drawn the inner and outer ring radius lines for each ring
on the sheet. The Table
Saw Miter Angles program uses the inner and outer ring diameters
and the number of segments per ring.
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Design Step #4
On the sheet, measure and record all the inner and outer ring diameter
dimensions for use with the Table
Saw Miter Angles program.
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Design Step #5 - Ring #2
Fill in the "Project Setup and Design" box of the Table
Saw Miter Angles program for each segmented ring and print the
sheet. The sheet will have all the calculated dimensions necessary
for cutting the Ring #2 segments.
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Design Step #5 - Ring #3
Do the same thing as you did with Ring #2.
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Design Step #5 - Ring #4
Do the same thing as you did for the previous rings.
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Design Step #5 - Ring #5
Do the same thing as you did for the previous rings.
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Design Step #5 - Ring #6
Do the same thing as you did for the previous rings.
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Design Step #5 - Ring #7
Do the same thing as you did for the previous rings.
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Design Step #5 - Ring #8
Do the same thing as you did for the previous rings.
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Design Step #5 - Ring #9
Do the same thing as you did for the previous rings.
Now, all dimensions necessary to cut the segments for all the rings
for this bowl have been calculated. I'll use these dimensions to
cut boards to length and width, and then cut segments from the boards.
It looks like I need about 40" of 1"x6" kiln dried
maple and about 14" of 1"x4" purpleheart to make
this bowl.
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The next thing to do is to start cutting segments and
constructing the bowl. You can get started by going to "Basic
Frame-Miter Segmented Bowl Construction". |