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Designing
a Basic Segmented Bowl Using a No-Math Method
This article was reprinted with the permission
of Kevin Neelley. For more information about him and this technique
you can visit his website.
This article is intended for the beginning
segmented bowl maker. This is basically a "no math" or "graphical"
maybe a "very little math" approach to segmented bowl design. I
have made three design sheets that will help the beginner through
the design phase. Using these three design sheets, I have designed
a 9-layered bowl using 12-sided frame-mitered rings. This webpage
will walk you through the design steps.
The picture to the right is the bowl
that is designed in this article. After you're done reading this,
you can read more about how to make
this bowl. You can also see the plans for a frame-miter
table saw sled that makes perfect ring segments.
If you make a similar bowl and follow
these steps, your bowl will turn out fine. Don't worry about the
details of segmented bowl construction. Instead, spend your time
thinking of an original design that you like. I'm sure that experienced
segmented bowl makers don't make bowls using all the steps in this
article. I don't make segmented bowls this way either, but I think
it's a good learning approach. Experience will tell you how to modify
the steps. Until you are experienced, you shouldn't modify the steps
until you understand how the changes will affect the segmented bowl
construction.
Click on any photo to enlarge it.
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Segmented Bowl Design Sheet & Instructions
This first blank sheet is contains the instructions for using
my three design sheets in designing a segmented bowl or vase.
This sheet also has a grid for recording design measurements
taken from the other two bowl design sheets. The filled-out
grid will have all the dimensions necessary for cutting the
segments in each of the ring layers.
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Bowl Design Sheet (Figure 1 Sheet)
This second blank sheet is used for drawing the outline of
your bowl. This design sheet is big enough to design a bowl
12" diameter by 12 ring levels tall. Each row, 1 through 12,
corresponds with a ring level of your bowl design. The grids
on the sheet are intended to be 1" wide by 3/4" tall to make
it easy to measure bowl ring dimensions directly from the
sheet. But, I found that every printer seems to print the
grids at different sizes. So, I suggest printing out one sheet
then using a photocopy machine to enlarge the sheet to full
1" grid width.
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Segment Design Sheet (Figure 2 Sheet)
This third blank sheet is used for drawing one of the segments
used in each ring level of your bowl. The dimensions taken
off this sheet will be used to accurately cut the segment
to size. You will need one of these sheets for each ring of
your bowl because the segments are different sizes. This sheet
is ONLY for 12-sided rings. The angle between the angled
lines is 15 degrees, which is the setting angle for your table
saw's miter gauge or sled fence. You will need to make a different
angled sheet for rings with other than 12 sides. The horizontal
and vertical lines on the sheet aren't drawn to any scale
and are for reference only. Draw your segment full-size on
this sheet.
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Step #1 (from the Instruction Sheet)
I have drawn the right-hand half outline of the new bowl
on the Figure 1 sheet. This is the first step in the design
process. If you want to see what the whole outline looks like,
hold the left side of the sheet against a mirror so you can
see the reflection of the sheet. The entire outline can then
be viewed. This design has 9 rings. The bottom ring will be
a solid disk. The other 8 rings will be segmented. I have
decided to make the top, middle, and bottom rings from purpleheart
and the rest of the rings from maple. The bowl will be made
from 3/4" thick kiln-dried lumber, purchased from a local
lumberyard.
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Step #2 (from the Instruction Sheet)
In this step I have drawn the inner surface outline of the
new bowl on the Figure 1 sheet using 1/2" wall thickness.
The 1/2" wall thickness does not mean I'm going to turn the
bowl to 1/2" thickness. The 1/2" is just a reasonably safe
design thickness. You can turn your bowl thinner. On the other
hand, if you don't make your segmented rings very accurately
and they end up egg-shaped or the wrong diameter, then 1/2"
might not be big enough. We'll take our chances on this one
because I'm using a really accurate
mitering sled.
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Step #3 (from the Instruction Sheet)
I have drawn the inner and outer ring boundaries for each
ring on the Figure 1 sheet. If we made our bowl from actual
rings instead of segments, the ring boundaries would be the
inner radius and outer radius of each ring. We need to transfer
the inner and outer ring boundaries of each ring to the Figure
2 sheet to find all of the segment cutting dimensions.
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Step #4 (from the Instruction Sheet)
As an example, I have decided to find the segment dimensions
for ring #6. A compass is used to transfer the inner and outer
ring boundaries of ring #6 onto the Figure 2 sheet, drawing
an arc between the angled lines.
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Step #5 (from the Instruction Sheet)
The next step is to draw a horizontal line across the top
of the outer boundary arc on the Figure 2 sheet. This is the
outer segment width line for the segments in ring #6. Then,
draw a horizontal line across the point that the inner ring
boundary arc crosses the angled lines. This is the inner segment
width line for the segments in ring #6.
Note that the segment thickness is larger (and will always
be larger) than the ring thickness. You might be able to ignore
this thickness difference between segment and ring on small
bowls, but on large bowls this could cause a wall thickness
disaster. I designed the bowl for 1/2" wall thickness, but
if I would mistakenly cut the segments to ring thickness,
then I might end up with a bowl having 3/8" wall thickness,
which could be chancy if the segmented ring is not perfectly
round or exactly the right diameter.
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Step #6 (from the Instruction Sheet)
I measured the distance between the outer and inner segment
width lines for the ring #6 segment. The distance was recorded
in the "Measured Board Width" column of the Segmented Bowl
Design Sheet. This distance is the width of the board that
the segments will be cut from.
Here's some food for thought. The board can be wider than
this, i.e., the segments for most of your rings could all
be cut from the same 1" x 2" nominal width board. Using the
bowl design method introduced in this article, using wider
boards would mean the excess segment wood would have to be
removed from the interior of the bowl. This is not a problem
with an open bowl but would be more difficult on a tall bowl,
like the one designed here.
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Step #7 (from the Instruction Sheet)
I measured the length of the inner and outer segment width
lines for the ring #6 segments on the Figure 2 sheet. I recorded
the lengths in the "Inner Segment Width" and "Outer Segment
Width" columns of the Segmented Bowl Design Sheet.
The inner segment width measurement is only used for calculating
the board length. So, if you are using nominal width boards
and not cutting your boards to width, then you do not need
to measure and record the "Inner Segment Width" measurement.
Also, you will not need (or be able to) calculate board length.
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Step #8 (from the Instruction Sheet)
I calculated the board length for cutting ring #6 segments
using the formula from the Segmented Bowl Design sheet. The
distance is recorded in the "Board Length" column of the Segmented
Bowl Design sheet. Twelve segments can be cut from a board
of this length, although I always add an inch or so extra
to the cut board length.
On this example sheet, I have shown all the cutting dimensions
for all the rings in the new bowl.
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Now I have all the dimensions necessary to cut the segments for
all the rings for this bowl. I'll use the dimensions to cut the
boards to length and width, and then cut segments from the boards.
Using the Segmented Bowl Design sheet, it looks like I need about
40" of 1"x6" kiln dried maple and about 14" of 1"x4" purpleheart
to make this bowl.
The next thing to do is to start cutting segments and constructing
the bowl. You can get started by going to "Basic
Frame-Miter Segmented Bowl Construction".
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